Hi I am going to try to tackle this subject with intent on giving some idea to novices about handling boid snakes, while not being to bad to read for experienced handlers. First let me say I believe in your right to own a large boid snake. I disagree with some of the legislation in cities to ban these animals because of the danger to human beings. I mean lets face it if you walked through a neighbors front yard and saw an escaped boid could you get away fom it? How about the neighbors escaped pit bull? Which would you rather face? In fact dogs are a much larger threat to humans than any escaped boid snake.
I do not however believe in your right to keep your boids in a bad situation that may also jeopardize my right to keeping my large constrictors. Many people however just do not understand snakes and the way they act before going out and purchasing a 10' burmese python. I can not tell you how many people came in to my pet store and asked "they won't bite their owners right?" This is the ignorance that us experienced keepers should stomp out. Instead of doing what a lot of experienced keepers do ignoring the novice, we need to help them because in the long run it will help us avoid negligence and undo deaths to un educated people. This will help us all.
CAGING I think this should be on the top of the list to educate would be, first time buyers of burmese, retics or other large constrictors. Never underestimate the power of the snake. Enclosures for adults should NOT be top opening as they will inevitably escape no matter how the top is closed. Snakes do have a level of intelligence which allows them to understand how to break out of the joint! Large constrictors should have front or side opening cages with thick glass so the door can not be broken by the snake pushing on it, or a quick unexpected strike, it does happen sometimes! I house my adult boids in 3/4" cabinet quality birch wood. With front opening doors made from 6" firing strips and 1/2" plexiglass screwed to it. The doors are closed using strong turn buttons that are securely screwed into the cage and tight fitting against the door. I also use for smaller specimens Neodesha enclosures. However I have found these enclosures to ilicit feeding responses in snakes when the sliding door is opened because of the sound it makes. It makes dealing with some of the snakes involved more difficult to handle because they will strike as soon as the door is open. Caging should be easy to clean and can be sealed with uerathane or similar products. Again NEVER underestimate the power of the snake to push out of its enclosure. If you think there is a possibility it can happen trust me it will!
FEEDING Another mistake by the novice snake keeper that may put their life or body in jeopardy is feeding time.NEVER offer food to a large constrictor with your hand, the result can be a terrible wound that would require stitches or worse, a large constrictor may miss the item and constrict you. I would not even suggest using tongs with certain snakes as that also can be just as dangerous. When a snake smells its food item everything you knew about that specimen usually goes out the window. They wil strike and constrict any warm moving object in front of them in a "feeding frenzy", including light bulbs, water bowls, cage doors[I almost got nailed by a 100 pound burmese but shut her door fast enough and she got her teeth stuck in the framing of the wood], carpet [I was almost also nailed by a retic in a feeding frenzy that jumped out of a waist high enclosure at me, luckily I was quick enough to get out of the way and the result was a snake that dive bombed, bit, and tried to constrict the carpeting! He got his teeth stuck in the carpet and it took us a half an hour to free him as he tried to constrict any part of our body touching him], and possibly you! I am extremely extremely careful when feeding my snakes but as you can see accidents can always happen so be warned. I never feed any of my large snakes with out another person standing right next to me. I will grab a rabbit or large guinea pig or whatever frozen prethawed rodent I am using and I will have my friend slowly open the cage door as to not get the snakes attention and I will toss in the item and the door shuts just as fast. We try to avoid getting the snakes attention while doing this so as not to train the snake that when the door is open the food is coming in. We try to be sneaky about it. I have heard suggestions on moving the snakes to a seperate enclosure so the snake expects food in that enclosure, and not its permanent enclosure. However, it seems that it would then be harder to extract the snake from that enclosure if it knows it will get food in it. How are you gonna move that big burmese out of that cage then?
Things to remember about feeding